As the days get longer, the cold gets stronger! But as the garden plants are
mostly dormant now this is a wonderful time for reflection and planning. On
those long winter evenings or rainy days when we are not clearing out the shed,
there is often a list of things that one has just not got round to doing. If you
have not yet thought about your seed for the new year, get cracking now for it
will not be long before the first sowings will need to begin.
But January is a great month to think about the structure of the garden, and if
you have thought about a feature, or a path now is the time to plan and prepare.
When the weather permits old paths and walls can be repaired and restored,
Overgrown walls, paths, trellis etc can be cleared of ivy and dead wood and
repaired. Winter pruning can be done for most trees and shrubs. Lawns can be
repaired and top dressed.
The ash from winter bonfires can be spread over herbaceous beds and the compost
can be cleared and spread as a mulch on the borders too, and also of course on
the vegetable garden. Digging can now be done if the weather allows, and deep
digging with some well rotted farmyard manure will benefit many of the
vegetables. It is important that you make a plan for the vegetable garden now to
avoid digging in fresh manure where you are going to plant your carrots and
parsnips for example.
Seed potatoes will soon be in the shops so if you are not to be disappointed,
think about which varieties you would like to grow and buy them early. Put them
in a frost free place where there is plenty of light and let them chit. Prepare
your pea beds- they like a lot of well rotted manure and can be sown early when
the ground is still quite cool. (think about the mice and catch them now!) Same
for parsnips and onion sets and broad beans. If you have a heated greenhouse you
can think about sowing tomatoes and leeks in January but a windowsill in a
heated house will do. Remember though that once the tomatoes are up they will
not tolerate frost!
If the weather is bad and there is snow, go round the garden and shake it off
the shrubs so that it does not break the branches. After it has rained wash the
outside of the greenhouse to allow maximum light in. This is a good time to
start pruning your fruit bushes and trees and canes if not done already. Tie in
your raspberry canes and loganberry canes, There is still time to plant new
fruit trees and bushes. If the weather is mild you can lift and divide
herbaceous plants and perennials too. Cover some rhubarb crowns with an old
bucket or barrel to force some.
The spring bulbs will soon be showing their heads. Inspect your dahlia tubers
and begonias and discard any that are rotten. Tend to any cuttings which you
took in the autumn, and start thinking about any flower seeds you might want to
sow this year. Bedding plants are getting so expensive these days you can grow
quite a lot quite easily if you have the space. For example I always sow some
alyssum in my non heated greenhouse, and I cover them with a cloche inside the
greenhouse. (Well the cloches are not being used for anything else at this time
of the year.)
As you can see there is lots to be doing – so get cracking! Happy gardening in
the New Year!
The Gardening Year
FEBRUARY IN MY GARDEN
Most of us have had a mild January and our garden plants are refusing to wait for a period of prolonged frost and snow. Already the snowdrops are appearing and aconites too are heralding the early beginnings of spring. There is still time to get on with the winter jobs though, and time spent in the garden now will pay off big dividends later in the year.
Continue with the winter pruning of shrubs, roses and trees. Wisteria needs to be pruned twice a year to develop a good structure to promote flowering spurs; as the buds start to swell you can see the difference between the vegetative leaf buds and the fatter, slightly blunter flowering buds. When pruning your soft fruit remember red and white currants fruit on older wood but the black currants fruit on last year’s growth. Buddleia and hardy fuschias can benefit from quite a severe pruning now, and will respond with vigorous growth in the spring.
You can still benefit from the dormancy of most plants to finish off those structural jobs like paths and maintenance of walls and fences. Now is also a good time to make and plant a rock garden and also to prepare ground for sowing new lawns in March or April.
Old and dead shrubs can be removed and replaced. Think about servicing your garden machinery before the grass starts to grow and service your tools- shears need sharpening- and the wooden handles of all your tools will benefit from some linseed oil thinned with a little white spirit.
Preparation in the vegetable garden should be well underway. Continue with the deep digging and let the frosts break up the soil. Every year your soil will improve if you add humus – well-rotted leaf mould is a good source- and nitrogen (well rotted farm yard manure is best). But also the vegetable garden will benefit from a top dressing of lime (hydrated lime) which will sweeten the soil. However, don’t put the lime on ground you plan to plant potatoes as this encourages scab. My earlies are chitting nicely now and it won’t be long before I seize a window of opportunity in the weather to put them in. My farmer neighbour once told me to get the potatoes in early and this is good advice. But of course they will need protection from frost. Onions, early leeks, cabbage, peas and lettuce can be sown under cover and broad beans, if not sowed last autumn, can be sown outdoors in light soils when the ground allows.
As growth is soon to begin now is a good time to feed fruit trees that are growing in grass- they get starved of nitrogen. Feed herbaceous plants too, clean and feed the asparagus beds, winter cabbages and sprouting broccoli. Herbs can be cleared around and some, like chives, can be divided.
Divide too herbaceous perennials such as Astilbe, Iris and Hemerocallis. Pelargoniums can be re-potted and Dahlias can now be boxed up. This is the time to be thinking about what you are to be sowing in the greenhouse, and prepare your seed trays and pots. More people are buying plug plants these days, so make sure (if you have ordered some) you have some compost and plenty of pots or trays ready for when they arrive.
Finally, Happy Valentine’s Day! Remember that the birds will soon be thinking of nesting, so now is the time to clean out and put up those nesting boxes. Happy gardening!
MARCH IN MY GARDEN
The cold weather and snow finally came to most of our gardens. But that didn’t stop the blooming of one of the earliest and most welcome of spring flowers - the snowdrop. As these flowers fade the clumps can be now lifted and divided to produce an even better show next year.
The plans made in the cold winter months can now be implemented for now is a good time to plant herbaceous perennials, evergreen shrubs, trees and hedging. Hardy cyclamen, can be planted too and they are so useful because they like cool shady places and will grow well under beech and oak trees. Where there are gaps in the beds, herbaceous perennials- Geum, Geraniums, Persicaria and Phlox- can be lifted and divided. Cuttings can be taken from Dahlias and outdoor Chrysanthemums. Gladioli can be planted and Begonia and Gloxinia tubers can be started. Turf can now be laid on prepared lawn areas.
Time is running out to finish your winter pruning, but this is a good time to prune Clematis and Hydranga, cutting off last years flower heads. Cornus and Salix will benefit from coppicing to stimulate the new growth, which will provide the colourful stems for next winter. March is the best month in my mind to prune the roses. I remember being told to get your worst friend to prune your roses! Certainly hard pruning of tea roses will produce strong shoots and blooms, but floribunda roses should be pruned more lightly, and for climbing roses the side branches should be pruned to two buds from the main stem.
As the days lengthen and temperatures rise plants are soon to burst into growth. Anticipate their requirements and feed the lawns, the raspberries, loganberries, blackberries and strawberries. The sap will be rising in the fruit trees so now is the time to top graft and rejuvenate old trees. It is great fun grafting different varieties and we have some delicious blue plums, which I grafted on to some wild plums, that are abundant in our garden. There is still time to plant fruit trees but remember to prepare the ground well, and make sure that the young tree’s roots do not dry out. Established apple and pear trees should be mulched and then sprayed against scab.
The sowing of vegetables can now begin in earnest. But the ground must be well prepared and ready. Wait until the weather allows and the soil conditions are right then seize the opportunity. Onion sets can go in quite early, then seed of onions, parsnips, broad beans, leeks, cabbage and carrots. Early potatoes can be sown, but they will need protection if there are late frosts and tomatoes can be sown indoors. Jerusalem artichokes can go in now – they are easy to grow and are very useful in the kitchen - but have to be watched as they can be invasive. Hardy annuals too- like nasturtiums and sweet peas- can also be sown.
Remember as growth begins there are predators around. Protect young shoots from slugs and snails and any brassicas left uncovered will provide tasty breakfasts for hungry pigeons! Most importantly relish the awakening of spring in our gardens! It is truly a wonderful time of year. Finally as the sun gets stronger remember to open the greenhouse ventilators on those sunny days- but also remember to close them at night!
APRIL IN MY GARDEN
The great awakening of spring is upon us and what a joy it is to see our gardens bursting into life after the dormancy of winter. As temperatures rise and the days lengthen our plants like true ephemerals must make the most of what they are given. But so must we as there is lots to be done!
The winter protection given to those less hardy plants can now be removed. Cuttings can be taken from herbaceous perennials like Delphiniums, Phlox and Lupin, which will all grow well from young shoots. If sweet peas were sown in the autumn they can now be planted out, but those in milder areas will have survived the winter outside. But as the weeds appear you will need to get busy with the hoe; it is best to tackle the weeds before they get established. Summer flowering bulbs and corms, lilies, gladioli and dahlia tubers can be planted, but plant the dahlias quite deeply as there is still a chance of frost which could damage the tender shoots.
This is the time to propagate woody plants like rhododendrons and azaleas by layering and I remember layering a Magnolia grandiflora from some low branches that were resting on the ground. Tie in twining climbers like clematis and honeysuckle. New lawns can be sown on ground well prepared last month. Make sure it is nicely rolled and sow the seed evenly when the soil is moist then gently rake it in. Choose a dry day to cut the grass on established lawns: if the grass is cut frequently there is no need to collect the grass. Towards the end of the month is a good time to give the lawn a spring feed. This is a good time to feed roses too.
Plant asparagus beds and now the maincrop potatoes. Remember to earth up the young shoots of early potatoes. This will improve the yield and also give protection from late frosts. You can also earth up the young peas a little to give them protection. Continue the sowing of vegetables –tomatoes, celeriac, carrots, spinach, lettuce, broccoli, beetroot, cabbage, cauliflower and leeks. Parsley takes a long time to germinate but grows easily on most soils and is invaluable in the kitchen. The flat leafed varieties have more flavour, but the curly leafed varieties are more decorative for garnishes, so I usually grow both. The seeds of the more tender vegetables should be sown in a propagator or greenhouse, courgettes, cucumbers, aubergine, runner and green beans.
As the beans germinate you can be preparing the ground for them by digging trenches and digging in plenty of well-rotted manure. Prick out seedlings before they get too leggy and get your brussel sprouts out early as it is the early plants that give the finest crops. You may need to cover the brassicas, turnips and radish against the birds and to help prevent flea beetle attacks, and the carrots too against carrot fly. Those germinated seedlings of carrots and parsnips will now need thinning out. Control slugs and snails that will be lying in wait for your young plants, and watch out for aphid attacks and downy mildew and black spot on gooseberries. Spray blackcurrants against big bud mite, and mulch raspberries, blackberries and loganberries. Think about getting some straw in for the strawberries but don’t put it on just yet.
Finally pay attention to the temperature in the greenhouse. The sun is getting stronger and seedlings will need shading to avoid scorching.
MAY IN MY GARDEN
May is a wonderful month in the garden with the appearance of lush new growth and spring colour, but if April was a busy month then May will be even busier!
Appearing in the shops will be all kinds of colourful bedding plants, but be careful there will be cold nights for a while and these should not be safely planted outside until towards the end of next month. Those raised at home should be hardened off prior to bedding out. In contrast brussel sprout plants can now be planted out - they will be stronger plants for being out early, as they need a longer growing season. Remember to give them plenty of room, as it is easy when they are small to plant them too close. They really need 1 metre between each plant and the same distance between the rows. Outdoor chrysanthemums and dahlias can be planted out now too and summer hanging baskets can be planted up. When the first flower buds appear on tomato plants they are ready to be planted in the greenhouse; if you are not using growbags they will benefit from some well -rotted manure and a little sprinkling of bonemeal at planting time.
The sowing of half-hardy annuals can now begin, with mesembryathemums, nasturtium, ageratum and tagetes, being examples of those easy to grow plants, which will provide lovely summer colour. Sow seeds of biennials like sweet william and wallflowers, especially in the North as they will benefit from a slightly longer growing period. Continue successive sowings of beetroot, carrot, cabbage, radish, turnip, lettuce and peas (remembering to give the peas plenty of room) and sow autumn and spring broccoli. Why not try sowing something different this year, sweetcorn or endive perhaps, or some of the fashionable new salads like the pak choi I have just sewn? The earlier sowings of beetroot and carrot should be thinned appropriately.
There is some pruning to be done, not much, but after flowering, those lovely prolific clematis montana will benefit from some pruning, as also will the flowering currant. Box hedges and topiary can be trimmed lightly. Otherwise it is time for the hoe. Keep the weeds down in the vegetable garden by hoeing the onions and earthing up the potatoes. Those nasty weeds like bindweed and ground elder and nettles can be spot treated with herbicide. The lawns to will benefit from a weedkiller applied now. Those mixed with an all round fertiliser are very good but these, unlike spray herbicides, should be applied before the rain. Then after the rain has watered them in and the grass is dry the weekly mowing of lawns can continue.
As the rains allow the lush new growth to burst forth perennials will need staking, sweet peas will need tying in or supporting in some way. New growth on rambling and climbing roses will need training and support will be needed for the runner beans which can be sown later this month - as can the green beans. For some reason I find they germinate better in the greenhouse (more protection from predators and disease I suppose) and I then harden them off and transplant them later. I always sow a few extras at the end of the rows of runners as spares for any that don't germinate or die.
Cuttings can be taken from hydrangeas. Choose the non-flowering strong shoots - about 4-5 inches long. Pelargonium cuttings will also root as the temperatures rise. The sun is getting quite strong now so you will need to shade the greenhouse to protect plants like begonias, which will scorch easily. Remember to ventilate the greenhouse when it is warm and sunny.
Raspberries will be making strong growth. The strong suckers will provide next year's fruit but those weak ones could be thinned to allow more vigour to go into the ones you are keeping. Some fresh clean shiny straw put under the strawberries will look wonderful and prevent the fruit from getting dirty.
As the plants enjoy the warmth and rain, so do the pests and diseases! Carrots will need protection with fleece from the carrot fly, roses will need watching for aphid attack and spraying. Check for canker and blossom wilt on trees. As ever there will be hungry slugs and snails waiting for a feast on your newly germinated seedlings, and the birds will be watching your brassicas and fruits! And the green slimy blanketweed that appears in the pond should be removed by twisting it around a rake or a net.
Finally if there is a dry spell remember to water newly planted trees and shrubs and the actively growing vegetables. But most importantly take the time to stand back and enjoy it!
www.yourgardenneedsme.co.uk
JUNE IN MY GARDEN
The days are long now so let’s hope the weather is
good to allow us to enjoy some long evenings in the garden. There is still
plenty to do and the time has come to reap some benefit from your hard work
earlier in the year.
June is the month for roses which are at their
best now. Do remember to cut some for the house, they should be cut with sharp
scissors just above a leaf that has five leaflets. Start picking gooseberries,
raspberries and strawberries ; you can reduce the runners on the strawberries,
and tie in the new growths on raspberries, loganberries and blackberries. The
early potatoes will soon be ready for harvest- they should be ready when the
flowers appear and oh they do taste so good! Asparagus cutting should stop
around the third week in June to allow the crowns to build up strength for next
year.
Grass is growing quickly and the lawns will need
cutting regularly; what a difference it makes when the edges are cut neatly
too. Apply some summer lawn feed if you want to spend even more time cutting!
Newly sown lawns will need watering but are best if the grass is left a bit
longer so it does not dry out so quickly. Although the grass around daffodils
may look untidy wait until all the foliage from the daffodils has dried and turned
brown before cutting. Tulips can be lifted and either heeled in or left out to
dry before replanting next November.
Keep newly planted shrubs and trees well watered
during dry spells. Water too the bedding plants which can be planted out safely
now. Plant out cabbages, courgettes, squash, sweet corn, celery, celeriac and
marrows. When planting out leeks it is best to use a dibber - drop in the leek
and then water; there’s no need to fill the hole with soil. Sow biennials such
as forget-me-not, sweet williams, wallflowers, and foxgloves. Sow herbs such as
basil and coriander, and turnips, and salad vegetables for a continuous summer
supply.
Remove the side shoots from tomatoes as they grow
and provide support for the vines, and shorten the vigorous growth on apples
and pears. Thin direct showings of hardy annuals and vegetables such as carrot,
beetroot, endive and chicory. Stop broad beans, remove the flower heads from
rhubarb. Disbud the roses, and dead head lupin and delphinium. Cut back
aubretia and alyssum saxatile hard
after flowering. Prune mature shrubs that have finished flowering- weigela,
philadelphus, deutzia.
June is a good time to take softwood cuttings of
many deciduous shrubs and alpines and divide Iris.
Watch out for early caterpillar infestation and
remove them when first seen. Look out for powdery mildew, and check plants for
whitefly and aphids. Treat with insecticides or biological control. Stopping
broad beans reduces attack from blackfly. I use garden shears and cut the tops
off like trimming a hedge! Protect carrot from fly with a fleece at least 2
feet high.
Remember to keep the greenhouse ventilated and
shaded and most importantly make some time to relax and enjoy those lovely long
summer evenings.
“The rose was awake all night for your sake
Knowing your promise to me,
The lilies and roses were all awake,
They sighed for the dawn and thee.”
Alfred, Lord Tennyson
JULY IN MY GARDEN
St Swithin’s Day if thou dost rain,
For forty days it will remain.
St Swithin’s Day if thou be fair,
For forty days twill rain nae mair.
As flowering shrubs and roses finish blooming they should be dead headed and this will encourage repeat flowering on the roses. A feed will also help promote this. Feeding dahlias will produce stronger plants and a mulch of lawn mowings and garden compost will help conserve moisture. Dahlias like runner beans like to have moisture so you can do the same with the beans. Feed too with liquid feed plants in pots and hanging baskets. Fertilise onions and tomatoes.
Keep regular mowing of lawns keeping the cuttings for use as mulch and compost. Newly sown lawns will need watering if the weather is dry.
Summer prune overlong shoots on trained fruit trees and arches. Clip privet hedges and box topiary by the end of the month. Prune hydrangeas and black currants after the fruit has been harvested. This will promote an abundance of new growth which will bear next year’s fruit. Summer prune the new growth on wisteria – 5 or 6 buds from the main stem.
Vigorous growth on the dahlias will require support as also will gladiolus, chrysanthemums and michaelmas daisies. This new growth on many shrubs and evergreens can be used to take cuttings – forsythia, flowering currant,escallonias,weigela, camelias, rhododendron,lavender, sage rosemary, thyme – the list goes on! Peg down strawberry runners to help them root and prepare ground for new strawberry beds. In general after three years a strawberry bed should be discarded and a new bed made.
Continue to harvest potatoes according to variety, and garlic, shallots, lettuce, carrots, broad beans as they come ready. Sow salads for autumn use and also beet and sea kale. Late savoy cabbage, winter cabbage, autumn heading cauliflower and broccoli can be planted now. Harvest herbs for drying. Prick out biennials – sweet william and wallflowers -and grow them on in a nursery bed giving them plenty of room.
In the orchard thin the fruit on plum, pears and apples. If the king fruit has not been removed then this is the one to go – it is generally in the centre of a cluster and often not so well shaped.
Keep ponds and bird - baths topped up. Clear duckweed and blanket weed from ponds and keep a vigilant eye for signs of pests and disease. Think ahead and spray potatoes and tomatoes for blight. Spray for mildew and greenfly and destroy the eggs of the cabbage white as soon as she lays on your brassicas.
Continue to pay attention to ventilation and shading in the greenhouse. And finally its time to start thinking about ordering those spring flowering bulbs for planting in the autumn!
AUGUST IN MY GARDEN
As August is a popular time to take a holiday, remember to move those potted plants into a shady corner, and if possible, place them on some wet gravel to help retain moisture. If you are going to be away then there will be lots of tidying to do before you go.
Trim lavender and remove the old flower spikes. This will encourage new growth for next years’ flowers. To keep the garden neat and tidy remove any dead flower heads and seed pods. Trim wisteria, and laurel hedges. It’s best to use secateurs to do this not shears which will damage the leaves. Cut back any perennials that have blown over and are encroaching on paths and lawns. Thin and shorten any rambler roses as they finish flowering. Tie in and disbud dahlias and chrysanthemum where prize blooms are wanted. This obviously does not apply to pompom dahlias and spray chrysanths. Continue to cut and dry everlasting flowers like statice, helichrysum and acodinium. Tie them in bunches upside down in a dry place.
Watch out for early signs of blight on potatoes, continue to spray fortnightly. If you are unfortunate to get the blight harvest immediately or at least cut off the tops and destroy them. This will stop the bight travelling down the stems to the potatoes. Harvest sweet corn, courgettes and beans – this will encourage further cropping. Bend the tops of onions over which will encourage ripening. Remove the lower leaves from tomato plants and remove dense foliage where it covers the fruit. The tomatoes will benefit from the sun for ripening. The same applies to the foliage covering fruits like apples and pears. Remove any diseased fruits. Earwigs can be a great nuisance on dahlias, they eat the flowers and damage petals. They like hiding in dark dry places so block up the end of the supporting canes and trap them in an upturned flowerpot filled with hay.
Make a sowing of onions and spring cabbage. White Lisbon is a good spring onion. You can sow lawn seed from late August. Pot up rooted geranium cuttings. Water any newly planted strawberries- but don’t plant them too closely. Plant winter brassicas.
Most lilies should be planted in November or early spring, but the Madonna lily, Lilium candidum is an exception and must be planted in August- do not bury the bulbs too deeply. Autumn bulbs like Colchicum ,Nerines and Saffron crocus can also be planted now. Also plant border carnations. Feed ferns, brussel sprouts and all brassicas to help continue growth. If you have not done already place your order for Christmas bulbs. To grow good plants needs good soil and adding compost does this naturally. From now on there should be quite a lot of garden waste so prepare your compost heap. Keeping it watered will speed up the decomposition of the organic matter.
Trim lavender and remove the old flower spikes. This will encourage new growth for next years’ flowers. To keep the garden neat and tidy remove any dead flower heads and seed pods. Trim wisteria, and laurel hedges. It’s best to use secateurs to do this not shears which will damage the leaves. Cut back any perennials that have blown over and are encroaching on paths and lawns. Thin and shorten any rambler roses as they finish flowering. Tie in and disbud dahlias and chrysanthemum where prize blooms are wanted. This obviously does not apply to pompom dahlias and spray chrysanths. Continue to cut and dry everlasting flowers like statice, helichrysum and acodinium. Tie them in bunches upside down in a dry place.
Watch out for early signs of blight on potatoes, continue to spray fortnightly. If you are unfortunate to get the blight harvest immediately or at least cut off the tops and destroy them. This will stop the bight travelling down the stems to the potatoes. Harvest sweet corn, courgettes and beans – this will encourage further cropping. Bend the tops of onions over which will encourage ripening. Remove the lower leaves from tomato plants and remove dense foliage where it covers the fruit. The tomatoes will benefit from the sun for ripening. The same applies to the foliage covering fruits like apples and pears. Remove any diseased fruits. Earwigs can be a great nuisance on dahlias, they eat the flowers and damage petals. They like hiding in dark dry places so block up the end of the supporting canes and trap them in an upturned flowerpot filled with hay.
Make a sowing of onions and spring cabbage. White Lisbon is a good spring onion. You can sow lawn seed from late August. Pot up rooted geranium cuttings. Water any newly planted strawberries- but don’t plant them too closely. Plant winter brassicas.
Most lilies should be planted in November or early spring, but the Madonna lily, Lilium candidum is an exception and must be planted in August- do not bury the bulbs too deeply. Autumn bulbs like Colchicum ,Nerines and Saffron crocus can also be planted now. Also plant border carnations. Feed ferns, brussel sprouts and all brassicas to help continue growth. If you have not done already place your order for Christmas bulbs. To grow good plants needs good soil and adding compost does this naturally. From now on there should be quite a lot of garden waste so prepare your compost heap. Keeping it watered will speed up the decomposition of the organic matter.
SEPTEMBER IN MY GARDEN
The holiday is over and it’s back to the garden! There is still some warmth and growth continues. Now is the time to start tidying up the beds, reducing the growth of hebaceous plants that are looking untidy and dead-heading plants that have finished flowering. Dead-heading dahlias will promote further blooms, and deadheading begonias will prevent fungal disease.
Rampant climbers should be pruned back, train climbing roses and prune loganberries, cutting out all the old canes that have borne this year’s fruit and tie up the new canes which will bear next year’s fruit like a fan.
Unfortunately my loganberry bed is full of bindweed, but now is a good time to spray these troublesome weeds- dandelions and ground elder too- with weedkiller containing glyphosate.
Continue to cut the lawns, they seem never to have stopped growing this year, and now is a good time to do repairs, as it is still warm enough for seed to germinate. If needed the lawn can be top dressed now too – it will make it grow even faster, but oh it will look good!
Sow hardy annuals- Nigella, Calendula, Stocks, Godetias,Cornflowers, and Salpiglossis. Antirrhinum too which are really bienniels. In the vegetable garden winter lettuce and spinach can be sown. Feed leeks. Sweet peas can be sown and in milder areas towards the end of the month and left out all winter. If sown now they will have chance to establish a root system before the winter cold, and they will produce lovely early blooms. They will need some winter protection in colder regions. In my garden they need protecting from mice, slugs and snails and then the birds!
Begin the planting of spring bulbs- Narcissus and Tulipa and complete the planting of strawberries. As Gladioli begin to die down they should be lifted and dried off before storing in a cool ventilated frost free place.
Prepare to harvest and store apples and pears. The early varieties do not seem to keep so well. Harvest french and runner beans, and sweet corn - before the cobs turn yellow. Pick tomatoes. Lift and dry onions then store in a dry well ventilated place. Lift and store carrots and beetroot. Lift the maincrop potatoes when the skin has set. Gather herbs for winter drying.
Lift and divide perennials and take cuttings of tender perennials such as pelargonium and Fuchsia, rose and lavender. Remember to leave a heel on the lavender cuttings and heel the rose cuttings in a moist sheltered spot and heel them in at a depth of 4-6 inches.
Prepare the ground for spring cabbages and as the summer bedding plants begin to look tired replace with spring flowering plants and bulbs. Keep the hoe going and in the strawberry bed this will help encourage growth to build up new crowns. Finally keep a vigilant eye out for infestations of aphid and caterpillar and treat accordingly. It is remarkable how quickly a crop can be decimated in a very short time!
Rampant climbers should be pruned back, train climbing roses and prune loganberries, cutting out all the old canes that have borne this year’s fruit and tie up the new canes which will bear next year’s fruit like a fan.
Unfortunately my loganberry bed is full of bindweed, but now is a good time to spray these troublesome weeds- dandelions and ground elder too- with weedkiller containing glyphosate.
Continue to cut the lawns, they seem never to have stopped growing this year, and now is a good time to do repairs, as it is still warm enough for seed to germinate. If needed the lawn can be top dressed now too – it will make it grow even faster, but oh it will look good!
Sow hardy annuals- Nigella, Calendula, Stocks, Godetias,Cornflowers, and Salpiglossis. Antirrhinum too which are really bienniels. In the vegetable garden winter lettuce and spinach can be sown. Feed leeks. Sweet peas can be sown and in milder areas towards the end of the month and left out all winter. If sown now they will have chance to establish a root system before the winter cold, and they will produce lovely early blooms. They will need some winter protection in colder regions. In my garden they need protecting from mice, slugs and snails and then the birds!
Begin the planting of spring bulbs- Narcissus and Tulipa and complete the planting of strawberries. As Gladioli begin to die down they should be lifted and dried off before storing in a cool ventilated frost free place.
Prepare to harvest and store apples and pears. The early varieties do not seem to keep so well. Harvest french and runner beans, and sweet corn - before the cobs turn yellow. Pick tomatoes. Lift and dry onions then store in a dry well ventilated place. Lift and store carrots and beetroot. Lift the maincrop potatoes when the skin has set. Gather herbs for winter drying.
Lift and divide perennials and take cuttings of tender perennials such as pelargonium and Fuchsia, rose and lavender. Remember to leave a heel on the lavender cuttings and heel the rose cuttings in a moist sheltered spot and heel them in at a depth of 4-6 inches.
Prepare the ground for spring cabbages and as the summer bedding plants begin to look tired replace with spring flowering plants and bulbs. Keep the hoe going and in the strawberry bed this will help encourage growth to build up new crowns. Finally keep a vigilant eye out for infestations of aphid and caterpillar and treat accordingly. It is remarkable how quickly a crop can be decimated in a very short time!
OCTOBER IN MY GARDEN
Damaging frosts may occur at any time now so if frost threatens tender plants must be brought inside. But with the cooler temperatures the autumn colours will appear. Enjoy what you see and use this natural palette to think ahead of what you might want to change or introduce.
Chrysanthemums should be brought into the greenhouse which should be kept well ventilated. Gradually reduce the watering of potted up Fuschias and generally keep the greenhouse drier as it gets colder. Dahlias can be left in the ground until the cold has blackened them, but if you want to remember what colour they are, place a label on a stem before they are blackened by the frost.
Prune blackberries in the same way as the loganberries and thin and tie in the raspberries. Do not cut the tips – this is best done in February. In a wet year, such as we have had, raspberries tend to produce a lot of new basal shoots. Now is the time to remove the unwanted ones. Take gooseberry cuttings.
Lift and divide Asters after flowering and prepare the ground for spring bedding by digging or forking and then adding fertiliser. Additional bone meal helps to promote root growth.
Plant up containers with spring flowering plants and bulbs taking care to preserve as much root as possible on the plants – the more root the more chance they have to get established. Then start planting spring bedding for early displays - Wallflowers, Polyanthus, Forget-me-not, Sweet William and Foxglove.Plant out spring cabbages and autumn sown onion sets and garlic.
Pot up shrub cuttings which were taken in July and August.
Buy or make a cold frame. This will be very useful in the winter and spring for protecting tender plants. Sow winter salads in a cold greenhouse.
Prune climbing and rambler roses tying in the stems where necessary.
Late carrots keep best when left in the soil, but it is best to protect them with straw when it gets frosty. Protect less hardy plants too with fleece, In exposed areas Brussel sprouts will benefit from staking and the removal any of the lower leaves that are turning yellow - to prevent fungal disease.
Spray peaches and nectarines against peach leaf curl using a copper based fungicide just before leaf fall.
Continue to tidy herbaceous borders and vegetable garden. Clear the garden of weeds and clear around fruit trees. Cut down Asparagus and sweep up and compost the leaves as they fall. Turning the compost heaps will assist the decomposition.
Collect and dispose of any apples and pears which are starting to rot. Reduce the frequency of mowing of the lawn, scarify and aerate.
Chrysanthemums should be brought into the greenhouse which should be kept well ventilated. Gradually reduce the watering of potted up Fuschias and generally keep the greenhouse drier as it gets colder. Dahlias can be left in the ground until the cold has blackened them, but if you want to remember what colour they are, place a label on a stem before they are blackened by the frost.
Prune blackberries in the same way as the loganberries and thin and tie in the raspberries. Do not cut the tips – this is best done in February. In a wet year, such as we have had, raspberries tend to produce a lot of new basal shoots. Now is the time to remove the unwanted ones. Take gooseberry cuttings.
Lift and divide Asters after flowering and prepare the ground for spring bedding by digging or forking and then adding fertiliser. Additional bone meal helps to promote root growth.
Plant up containers with spring flowering plants and bulbs taking care to preserve as much root as possible on the plants – the more root the more chance they have to get established. Then start planting spring bedding for early displays - Wallflowers, Polyanthus, Forget-me-not, Sweet William and Foxglove.Plant out spring cabbages and autumn sown onion sets and garlic.
Pot up shrub cuttings which were taken in July and August.
Buy or make a cold frame. This will be very useful in the winter and spring for protecting tender plants. Sow winter salads in a cold greenhouse.
Prune climbing and rambler roses tying in the stems where necessary.
Late carrots keep best when left in the soil, but it is best to protect them with straw when it gets frosty. Protect less hardy plants too with fleece, In exposed areas Brussel sprouts will benefit from staking and the removal any of the lower leaves that are turning yellow - to prevent fungal disease.
Spray peaches and nectarines against peach leaf curl using a copper based fungicide just before leaf fall.
Continue to tidy herbaceous borders and vegetable garden. Clear the garden of weeds and clear around fruit trees. Cut down Asparagus and sweep up and compost the leaves as they fall. Turning the compost heaps will assist the decomposition.
Collect and dispose of any apples and pears which are starting to rot. Reduce the frequency of mowing of the lawn, scarify and aerate.
NOVEMBER IN MY GARDEN
As the days get shorter it is time to start thinking about general tidying in the garden before the bad weather comes. Most of us will have had some frost by now and there will be lots of leaves to rake. If you have room use them to compost and make leaf mould which will enrich your soil with humus.
Herbaceous borders will benefit from being forked over lightly and some of last years’ well rotted garden compost added as a mulch. Garden paths can be cleaned, swept and if shingle some fresh shingle added.
This is an ideal time to lay turf on prepared ground as there should be sufficient moisture in the air to prevent drying out. Benefit from the few days of mild weather that will allow the roots to get down before the winter so you will have a stronger lawn in the spring. The same reasoning applies to the sowing of broad beans and the hardier varieties of peas and sweet peas which can also be sown now in mild areas.
Winter pruning can begin now. This is a good time to deal with old and neglected fruit trees but don’t just snip off the shoots willy nilly. Rather make a plan and better remove some of the large and crossing old branches to let light into the tree. The more you cut and attack the tree then the more vigorous it will respond next year, but remember this will be vegetative growth. Prune red and white currants and this is also a good time to take cuttings if you would like. Take cuttings about 9 inches long and heel them in a sheltered corner of the garden and they will root easily.
Hedges can be renovated and planted. Roses, rhododendrons and azaleas can be planted - also bare root fruit trees, quince, crab apple , blackberry, raspberry and loganberry canes. The sooner these go in the better as they too will benefit from the few mild days to get their roots established. The soft fruit can be divided any time between now and March. When conditions allow lilies are best planted now- but not Lilium candidum which should be planted in August. It’s not too late to plant tulips.
When the weather allows get some digging done; the more done now the easier it will be later on. In the vegetable garden harvest Jerusalem artichokes, cauliflower and winter cabbage, early brussel sprouts, leeks, parsnips and swedes. Remove the dead and any yellowing lower leaves from brussel sprouts. Lift clumps of chives to grow in a pot in the greenhouse to extend their season.
Keep the greenhouse ventilated and frost free if you can. Again try to keep the humidity down and keep the watering down to a minimum. Protect any tender plants against frost. Move any tender pot plants into a sheltered position and/or protect them.
Continue to inspect the apples and potatoes in store and remove any showing signs of disease. Remember to control vermin too. Rats and mice tend to move into buildings when the weather gets colder.
Check the posts that support wires and fences and replace any that have rotted. When the grass stops growing, clean and grease the lawn mower.
Clean out the bird boxes and clean and replenish bird feeders. On a wet day make the most of the rain to clean your cloches and frames so they will be all ready for next year. It’s not that far away!
Herbaceous borders will benefit from being forked over lightly and some of last years’ well rotted garden compost added as a mulch. Garden paths can be cleaned, swept and if shingle some fresh shingle added.
This is an ideal time to lay turf on prepared ground as there should be sufficient moisture in the air to prevent drying out. Benefit from the few days of mild weather that will allow the roots to get down before the winter so you will have a stronger lawn in the spring. The same reasoning applies to the sowing of broad beans and the hardier varieties of peas and sweet peas which can also be sown now in mild areas.
Winter pruning can begin now. This is a good time to deal with old and neglected fruit trees but don’t just snip off the shoots willy nilly. Rather make a plan and better remove some of the large and crossing old branches to let light into the tree. The more you cut and attack the tree then the more vigorous it will respond next year, but remember this will be vegetative growth. Prune red and white currants and this is also a good time to take cuttings if you would like. Take cuttings about 9 inches long and heel them in a sheltered corner of the garden and they will root easily.
Hedges can be renovated and planted. Roses, rhododendrons and azaleas can be planted - also bare root fruit trees, quince, crab apple , blackberry, raspberry and loganberry canes. The sooner these go in the better as they too will benefit from the few mild days to get their roots established. The soft fruit can be divided any time between now and March. When conditions allow lilies are best planted now- but not Lilium candidum which should be planted in August. It’s not too late to plant tulips.
When the weather allows get some digging done; the more done now the easier it will be later on. In the vegetable garden harvest Jerusalem artichokes, cauliflower and winter cabbage, early brussel sprouts, leeks, parsnips and swedes. Remove the dead and any yellowing lower leaves from brussel sprouts. Lift clumps of chives to grow in a pot in the greenhouse to extend their season.
Keep the greenhouse ventilated and frost free if you can. Again try to keep the humidity down and keep the watering down to a minimum. Protect any tender plants against frost. Move any tender pot plants into a sheltered position and/or protect them.
Continue to inspect the apples and potatoes in store and remove any showing signs of disease. Remember to control vermin too. Rats and mice tend to move into buildings when the weather gets colder.
Check the posts that support wires and fences and replace any that have rotted. When the grass stops growing, clean and grease the lawn mower.
Clean out the bird boxes and clean and replenish bird feeders. On a wet day make the most of the rain to clean your cloches and frames so they will be all ready for next year. It’s not that far away!
DECEMBER IN MY GARDEN
DECEMBER IN MY GARDEN
Now is the time to sit before a lovely fire and get out your seed catalogue and plan your garden for next year. I sowed my broad beans last month from saved seed and I always keep the dried pods which make excellent kindling. There may even be some items in the catalogue you might want to add to your own Christmas list! With the ash dieback disease remember the old saying : Ash mature or green, makes a fire fit for a Queen!
You can plan any structural changes for your garden too this month and still have several winter months ahead to implement the changes. Prepare the ground for these changes, for new lawns and new areas to be planted next year. Fences should be repaired and wooden trellis and pergolas will benefit from treatment with a wood preservative.
There are still some leaves to be raked but some left around the roots of shrubs will help protect them from the winter cold as well as Clean the paths and driveways removing lichen and moss.
In the vegetable garden there will be celery, beetroot, turnips, swedes, sprouts, carrots, parsnips and Jerusalem artichokes to harvest. When the weather allows the rest of the vegetable garden should be cleaned and dug, digging in some well rotted farmyard manure and some garden compost.
If Dahlias have been lifted inspect them and dust with flowers of sulphur. Cut back potted pelargonium to 6 – 9 inches above the base. Clean and prepare seed trays for spring sowing. Clean out the greenhouse, wash the glass, move any plants out while sterilising with Jeyes fluid.
Plant deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs if the ground allows. Do not try to plant if the ground is wet and sticky or frozen. There is an old saying that shallots should be planted on the shortest day of the year and harvested on the longest. Pinch the tops out of your sweet pea seedlings if you made an autumn sowing.
Prune any overgrown trees and shrubs and deciduous hedges. Prune any grape vines before Christmas to prevent any bleeding. Half prune roses and begin the winter pruning of soft and tree fruits. Take hardwood cuttings from deciduous climbers such as Wisteria and Carnation cuttings towards the end of the month.
Collect holly -with berries if possible- as well as some colourful stems and winter flowering shrubs, to decorate the house at Christmas. We make our own wreath using seasonal foliage and berries and seed heads stuck into a base of bracken tied round with twine which looks lovely and welcoming on the front door.
Protect any tender vulnerable plants if the temperatures plummet. They say “Clear moon – frost soon, Halo around the moon, rain soon!” If it snows shake the snow off shrubs and trees to prevent damage. The birds will be feeling the cold so now is a good time to start feeding them, if you haven’t already started.
Finally enjoy the festive season with your family and friends because the gardening season officially ends on 31st December – and starts on 1st January! (Marie Huston)
Wishing you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Gardening Year!
Now is the time to sit before a lovely fire and get out your seed catalogue and plan your garden for next year. I sowed my broad beans last month from saved seed and I always keep the dried pods which make excellent kindling. There may even be some items in the catalogue you might want to add to your own Christmas list! With the ash dieback disease remember the old saying : Ash mature or green, makes a fire fit for a Queen!
You can plan any structural changes for your garden too this month and still have several winter months ahead to implement the changes. Prepare the ground for these changes, for new lawns and new areas to be planted next year. Fences should be repaired and wooden trellis and pergolas will benefit from treatment with a wood preservative.
There are still some leaves to be raked but some left around the roots of shrubs will help protect them from the winter cold as well as Clean the paths and driveways removing lichen and moss.
In the vegetable garden there will be celery, beetroot, turnips, swedes, sprouts, carrots, parsnips and Jerusalem artichokes to harvest. When the weather allows the rest of the vegetable garden should be cleaned and dug, digging in some well rotted farmyard manure and some garden compost.
If Dahlias have been lifted inspect them and dust with flowers of sulphur. Cut back potted pelargonium to 6 – 9 inches above the base. Clean and prepare seed trays for spring sowing. Clean out the greenhouse, wash the glass, move any plants out while sterilising with Jeyes fluid.
Plant deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs if the ground allows. Do not try to plant if the ground is wet and sticky or frozen. There is an old saying that shallots should be planted on the shortest day of the year and harvested on the longest. Pinch the tops out of your sweet pea seedlings if you made an autumn sowing.
Prune any overgrown trees and shrubs and deciduous hedges. Prune any grape vines before Christmas to prevent any bleeding. Half prune roses and begin the winter pruning of soft and tree fruits. Take hardwood cuttings from deciduous climbers such as Wisteria and Carnation cuttings towards the end of the month.
Collect holly -with berries if possible- as well as some colourful stems and winter flowering shrubs, to decorate the house at Christmas. We make our own wreath using seasonal foliage and berries and seed heads stuck into a base of bracken tied round with twine which looks lovely and welcoming on the front door.
Protect any tender vulnerable plants if the temperatures plummet. They say “Clear moon – frost soon, Halo around the moon, rain soon!” If it snows shake the snow off shrubs and trees to prevent damage. The birds will be feeling the cold so now is a good time to start feeding them, if you haven’t already started.
Finally enjoy the festive season with your family and friends because the gardening season officially ends on 31st December – and starts on 1st January! (Marie Huston)
Wishing you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Gardening Year!
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